Sunday, August 8, 2010

Coagulation

This evening, a couple of friends took me out for some fine dining at my favorite St. Louis trattoria on The Hill.  We started with a brisk, Italian, sparkling white wine, and then segued into a sultry, Argentinian red (the equivalent of a California Cabernet but, in my estimation, less rusty tasting).  As we were busily scrutinizing the menu for our entree selections, the following short exchange occurred--

Donna:  Do you think the [name of some ostentatious meat dish I can't remember] is pork or veal?

Jeff:  Well, considering that it is priced at $27.50, I'm guessing it is veal.

Donna:  Great!  Then I'm ordering it, if it is indeed veal.

Me:  You know, Donna, if your daughter [a radical animals' rights activist] finds out about this, you are dead meat (no pun intended).

Donna:  I just don't pay attention to that sort of thing [the controversy surrounding veal] and don't you tell my daughter, either!

 ***

When I was thirteen, I had the youthful insolence to lecture my father about the evils of industrialized farming while he was making himself a cold-cut sandwich.  As I was finishing some particularly truculent rant about how outrageously chickens are raised, my father silently turned to me and smacked me in the face with a slice of ham.  I still viscerally remember the greasy feeling that the meat juices left on my cheek.  That little happening cured me of lecturing meat-eaters about the evils of their diet whilst they were actually consuming it.  Thus, I did not have the stomach to criticize Donna's selection outright.  I could only look on in helpless dismay and incredulous bemusement as she ordered her veal.   

Being a professed vegetarian for the better part of two decades,* I've never actually eaten with someone who had the audacity (or complete indifference, as was the case with Donna) to unabashedly order veal in my presence.  In a moment of marked dissolution, I found myself quite curious to see what this much maligned dish looked like in living color.  Shortly before our meal was served, our waiter bestowed upon Donna a golden, ritualistic-appearing, dining implement--similar to an elongated, rectangular-shaped spoon--explaining that it allowed easy access to the marrow of the veal.  At this point, I began to feel a little queasy in anticipation of what seeming horror was to come next.  However, when the dish actually arrived at our table, it appeared as any other meat dish would appear to a non-meat eater - neither delightful nor grotesque.

I attentively monitored my friend as she enjoyed her dish, but she never picked up her "sacrificial marrow spoon" (which is what I had come to call it in my mind).  Eventually, she'd had her fill of dinner and pushed the plate away in abject satisfaction.  Jeff then asked her, with some confusion, why she hadn't eaten, or even tasted, the marrow.  She replied that it held no appeal for her and gamely scootched her dish in front of him so that he could partake in what he considered to be "the best part" of her meal.  

Both Donna and I watched Jeff in open fascination as he dug into the bone with that bizarre utensil.  He triumphantly extracted a brackish looking, almost black substance and then inserted the heaping spoonful into his mouth.  He dug in again and again before finally pronouncing ecstatically that, as soon as it touched his tongue, the marrow seemed to "coagulate" in his mouth**.  Apparently, this was a very good thing.  We segued into a discussion of fats in foods (as this marrow was obviously pure fat) and how folks like the taste of fat and so it made sense that Jeff would enjoy this aspect of the dish so much (in uncomfortable situations I tend to intellectualize).

We concluded our meal with shared succulent tiramisu, creme brulee, and no further incidents.  All in all, it was... educational :)       

Om shanti.


*Of late, I've begun eating fish, on occasion, but that isn't entirely relevant to this story.

**I'm guessing the word he was actually looking for was "liquefy" (it's nice to not be the only dyslexic at the table :)

5 comments:

VanessaMRR said...

As I ordered a burger last night, I wondered, briefly if that would offend you...
I am and will probably always be an omnivore- but I don't eat fish or seafood and on principal refuse to eat veal- though I did have it once, at an event where they were feeding us and not realizing what it was and found it delicious- however, I actually consider it heinous to order it.
I also won't eat lamb or deer.
I know- strange.
I try not to judge anyone's eating habits as I hate it when people judge mine- massive discussion of why I am so picky- what I will and won't eat- not for any other reason than people like to be involved in others plates but not for moral reasons...
But I would have been rather upset at the ordering of the veal myself. Just to tell you, it even bothers some meat eaters...

Contra Yogini said...

Nope, I wasn't offended :) Plus, Riddles serves largely local, environmentally friendly food, so I'm guessing the burger was fine.

Yeah, I'd imagine that veal is quite delicious, otherwise, why would people incapacitate baby cows just to eat it? I mean, it had BETTER taste fucking incredible. Still, the taste hardly makes up for the cruelty, we both agree :)

V, I don't make any personal judgments against people who eat meat. So many meat eaters are completely ignorant to the issues that motivated me to quit eating it. But, I also get that a lot of meat eaters ARE keenly aware of the horrors behind the production of veal and that they consequently choose not to partake, which is all to the good :)

Justin said...

As someone who is a part-time vegetarian & nutritarian and has a full-time vegetarian girlfriend, the one thing I've learmed when it comes to trying to shape other people's diets is that anyone can be the 'food police', but the 'food police' never get anyone to think more about their food or change their diet. The best way by far is to suffer silently, and continue eating the way you do in their presence.

To be honest, having started to eat well recently (but not too well. Mexican food and ice cream is still very much close to my heart (and gleefully give it disease), I'm more disgusted by how much dairy and pasta people consume than meat. I'm more disgusted by how poorly almost every North American eats. It's weird looking at someone seemingly painstakingly choose a meal that gives them absolutely no nutrition.

But you're not the fucking food police. Annd let me tell you, if they ever find out that you ventured off your diet-path (eg. you eating fish or me eating a slice of cheesecake), they're just as quickly turn into the food police and tell you about how terrible you're being by eating some tilapia while they indulge in the marrow of a baby seal.

Cheers & love,
- Justin

Contra Yogini said...

Oh, Justin. You could never watch me eat, then. My goddess, do I adore carbs and dairy! Life is not worth living w/out these things. ....and now I understand what it is like for the meat lovers out there.

You definitely have a point regarding leading by example.

And thanks for the link to the nutritarian info, too. My mom follows that diet (although, she didn't know it had a name - she just eats colorful, fresh fruits and vegetables).

I think Pollan said it best w/ "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."

Love to you!

Jessica said...

I like your comments on the wines! Nice descriptions/critiques.

Your dad slapping you in the face with the meat--each time you mention this incident, I get this feeling. That was almost violent, and rude. Very strange feeling.

As for the pasta, the previous commenter is completely correct--as I know you know. Pasta has been stripped of its nutritional value and dairy, well, you know all about the dairy.

I bring this up not to tell you what you already know (the student trying to tell the master old, old news) but instead to commiserate. I love a lot of things that have no nutritional value whatsoever. I recently re-discovered the fact that Oreos contain no dairy, no eggs, no animal products of any sort. Basically they're just wheat and sugar. In reverse order. I LOVE THEM.

Also, PopTarts contain no animal products either, but are basically just wheat and hugh-fructose corn syrup. I am teaching myself to love them once again. I WILL LOVE THEM AGAIN.

Is this the only way I can go cruelty-free? By eating PopTarts and Oreos? Am I okay with this? Am I an idiot?

Oooh, Mesquite-flavored Lays potato chips also contain no animal products! Yay!

...I think I might be doing this wrong.